The car looks okay amidst some bullet holes and broken glass. The windscreen at the back is gone, but the coat of arms is still keeping faith with the dark vehicle balanced on wooden stands. It rekindles memories of a dark day in February when death whisked away the then head of state General Murtala Mohammed. I am very familiar with the tale and remain undecided about skipping the session with the an education officer whom the Museum head Ibironke Ashaye instructs to lead me on the tour, but she insists, and it seems to be another history lesson as Antonia Adewunmi Wiliams leads me into the latest home for the car that was conveying the head of state to work on February 13, 1976 before it was besieged by gun-toting coup plotters.
For a Thursday afternoon, I am surprised to be the only visitor, but I am told a pottery exhibition was opened the previous day before by the Minister of Culture, Tourism and National Orientation. He was also one of the numerous visitors to the structure tagged Nigerian Government’s of Yesterday and Today.
As we enter the air conditioned interior, it is not just the bullet riddled Mercedes Benz 230.6 that catches my fancy as other signifiers of Nigerian nationalism adorn the green wall. Initial pictures include those of the Ooni of Ife, Oba Akitoye of Lagos and the Emir of Kano.
“Lord Lugard was the one who amalgamated the North and South Protectorate, she rattles on, and it sounds too familiar, but I soak it in like a sponge as she leads me round. The pictures do say a lot as images of Nigerian Governor-General’s end with one where the Union Jack is lowered- an end to colonialism, and the commencement of the images with Sir Tafawa Balewa, Nnamdi Azikiwe trigger memories of the First Republic.
Military rule commences with the usual characters spread over eight regimes. There is Aguiyi Ironsi and Gowon in his prime. The picture of the youngest head-of-state till date sees him balanced on a seat replete in his military regalia. His portrait is next to that of General Murtala Mohammed whose chubby cheeks and solid visage is admirable. This makes a change from the twenty naira image.
“The car started the whole idea of the structure,” adds my host. “It was formerly around that area, but we moved it here and it was commissioned yesterday (September 1) by the minister of Tourism, Culture and National orientation Alhaji Abubakar Mohammed. We moved the car here since the former place was not befitting for it. Also the coup was not successful as Obasanjo took over while the coup plotters were brought to book,”
A picture with Dimka being led away in chains with a grin on his face brings back memories of school days spent poring over Nigerian history. Most of the actors in this script have gone, but the Mercedes Benz 230.6 that used to convey the head of state on his official duties remains. It would not turn heads like it did in 1976, but its current state ends numerous tales on its state as the limousine retains an intimidating aura while the red leather upholstery and flags triggers memories of what used to be.
The bullet holes stick out with a horrifying clarity and I am told the driver also passed away. “Murtala’s ADC survived though. He (Murtala) was just there for six months and apart from Ernest Shonekan .I think he was the head of state that stayed shortest,” infers Williams.
I count about ten bullet holes which are discernible on the side-mirrors, left side of the car and parts of the passenger seats have also been ripped by hot lead. A new set of visitors have arrived, but the guide continues her tale on military coups which are punctuated by the Shonekan era and a shout of “Uncle Sege” by one of the visitors.
“Maintaining the car takes a lot and you need a constant AC to keep it going,” my chaperone continues. “The engine is still intact and the tyres are also new after a fresh set were donated by Michelin.”
Most of the pictures come in black & white and end with a portrait of President Goodluck Jonathan and that of his vice Namadi Sambo. The wall is devoid of any more space to hang pictures, but she says the museum is ready for further changes in government. With the re-commissioned haven being a temporary one, the plan is to have a permanent venue that will accommodate the size of its visitors.
“We have an average like 30 coming here to look at it daily, but when school children come here, we have around 200.”
Cool,” I reply. As a schoolboy I never visited the museum, but it is good to know that the kids can be acquainted with the real thing other than pictures in some mote-covered textbook lying in the school library.
“Most of them ask about Murtala, Obasanjo and Lugard. The also want to know about the coat of arms because they need it for social studies, government etc. It is not the main attraction but attracts a lot of people.”
With centenary celebrations of Nigerian independence around the corner, the museum is set for a large contingent of visitors who will want to feed their eyes.
“What if you get a buyer for the car? I joke.
“It is not for sale,” my guide replies with a grin. “If we were not passionate about it we would just abandon it.” The car is still intact and the museum head was upbeat about this artefact even if most visitors seemed indifferent to it.
“We still have many pictures that are not there, but by the time we complete the new building, everything will be in place,” Ashaye enthused.
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